Se till att dämparna är servade. Oljan från fabrik kan snabbt bli till skum och dra åt sig vatten.
Övre
Inre skruv=Lågfartskompression
Yttre sexkantmutter=Högfartskompression
Nedre
Justering av rebound dvs hur snabbt eller långsamt dämparen återgår till ursprungsläget före kompression.
Har du t ex för lite rebound kan maskinen kännas lite svampig.
För mycket högfartskompression kan ge en våldsam påminnelse vid hård komprimering dvs dämparen svarar upp snabbare och hårdare än den behöver, särskilt i boggien är det obehagligt att få den påminnelsen i hög fart.
Omvänt med för lite lågfartskompression blir maskinen känslig, vill vandra och reagera på t ex tyngspunktsförflyttning .
Compression
Clockwise stiffer
Counter clockwise softer
Rebound
Should return as fast as possible with out bucking
Clockwise is slower rebound
Counter clockwise is faster
Too much rebound dampening will seem harsh, washout, & packing
Tuning suggestion:
As a general rule you want as little rebound damping as possible so that the suspension returns quickly, but still enough rebound damping that the front of the snowmobile does not oscillate upon landing. The front of your snowmobile should return quickly to ride-height and then remain still. If the front suspension continues to oscillate several times after landing, try increasing rebound damping (slower).If the suspension does not oscillate after landing, try decreasing rebound damping (faster).This procedure should allow you to close in (or bracket) on the desired rebound damping setting
Symptoms of Too Much Compression Damping
The front end is harsh over small bumps. Shock seems to stay almost rigid instead of absorbing bumps. Especially noticeable on downhill bumps.
The front end is harsh at high speeds over large or medium bumps. The shock stays too rigid and does not use enough travel to absorb bumps. The shock rarely or never seems to bottom-out, even off the biggest jumps.
Symptoms of Too Little Compression Damping
The shock bottoms-out on medium-sized bumps and at the bottom of deep, smooth gullies, or rising portions of deep, rolling whoops.
Springs:
Springs are POSITION sensitive. They are softest at full extension. Stiffest at full compression. Everywhere in between at the other positions. If your sled is too soft on small stuff, stiffen the spring or increase the preload would be an option.
Red Nut:
This is the high speed adjustment. It is called this because it control high speed SHAFT movements. This adjustment is NOT position sensitive. No matter what position the shaft is...the amount of dampening is the same.
This adjustment would control how stiff the sled feels on bumps ranging from very small stutters to large deep holes. Whatever bump size or shape that causes the suspension to strike a bump and then move (fast shaft movement) is controlled by the red nut. Clockwise = stiffer. Counterclockwise = softer.
Center Screw:
This is the slow shaft speed adjustment and the most misunderstood adjustment in the world. Again, this adjustment in NOT position sensitive. It is similar to the red nut except bumps or terrain conditions that cause slow shaft movements are what it controls.
For example, if your inside ski lifts in turns....tighten the screw and this will slow body roll. Conversely, if you want to turn on your inside ski in powder or turn while standing....loosen the screw and enjoy more body roll.
Another example would be gentle terrain changes while riding at speed. If the sled compresses too much when negotiating rolling terrain...tighten the center screw. If the sled does not follow the ground enough for your liking....loosen the screw.
Se nedan exempel på kalibrering för en RS crossmaskin.
http://www.lynxtalk.se/pdf/bulletiner/L ... 5%20en.pdf
// Mattias